UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup

2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup, Cheongsong.
Speed ice climbing on natural ice
Lead ice climbing on a dry surface

The Ice Climbing World Cup (or UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour, or IWC) is an annual ice climbing competition organized by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), who has regulated and governed the sport of competition ice climbing since the first IWC in 2000. It is the ice climbing equivalent of the IFSC Climbing World Cup in rock climbing.[1][2]

Structure

The IWC is organized as an annual tour consisting of three to six events throughout the season (the number has varied over the years), in which men's and women's lead climbing and speed climbing competitions are held. The lead climbing routes are held on largely bolted dry artificial surfaces (with some natural ice features) and thus employ dry-tooling techniques.[3] The speed-climbing routes are on a standardized 12-18 meter (40-50 foot) wall of solid ice that takes seconds for top roped ice climbers to complete (as per speed rock climbing).[3][4]

Over the years, the UIAA has increased the regulation and use around competition ice climbing equipment, including the prohibition of leashes on ice tools (so they cannot be used as aid), and increased controls on the use of "heel spurs" while climbing (to counter their use for resting).[5]

Men's results

Lead

Year Winner Second Third
2000 Canada Will Gadd
2001 France Daniel Du Lac
2002 Russia Dimitri Bytchkov
Austria Harald Berger
2003 Austria Harald Berger Russia Alexey Tomilov Russia Dimitri Bytchkov
2004 no world tour
2005 no world tour
2006 Austria Harald Berger Switzerland Simon Wandler Austria Markus Bendler
2007 Ukraine Evgeny Kriovsheitsev Austria Markus Bendler Russia Alexey Tomilov
2008 Switzerland Simon Anthamatten Austria Markus Bendler Ukraine Evgeny Kriovsheitsev
2009 Austria Markus Bendler South Korea Park Hee Yong Russia Alexey Tomilov
2010 Austria Markus Bendler South Korea Park Hee Yong Russia Maxim Tomilov
2011 South Korea Park Hee Yong Russia Maxim Tomilov Austria Markus Bendler
2012 Russia Maxim Tomilov Russia Alexey Tomilov South Korea Park Hee Yong
2013 South Korea Park Hee Yong Russia Maxim Tomilov Ukraine Valentyn Sypavin
2014 Russia Maxim Tomilov South Korea Park Hee Yong Russia Alexey Tomilov
2015 Russia Maxim Tomilov South Korea Park Hee Yong Russia Alexey Tomilov
2016 Russia Maxim Tomilov South Korea Hee Yong Park Slovenia Janez Svoljsak
2017 South Korea Park Hee Yong Russia Nikolai Kuzovlev Russia Maxim Tomilov
2018 Russia Maxim Tomilov Russia Alexey Tomilov Iran Mohamadreza Safdarian Korouyeh
2019 Russia Nikolai Kuzovlev South Korea Park Hee Yong Switzerland Yannick Glatthard
2020 France Louna Ladevant Russia Nikolai Kuzovlev South Korea Kwon Younghye
2023 France Louna Ladevant South Korea Park Hee Yong Switzerland Benjamin Bosshard
2024 South Korea Younggeon Lee United States Keenan Griscom France Virgile Devin
2025 Switzerland Benjamin Bosshard South Korea Younggeon Lee France Louna Ladevant

Speed

Year Winner Second Third
2006 Russia Maxim Vlasov Switzerland Urs Odermatt Russia Igor Fayzullin
2007 Russia Alexander Matveev Russia Nikolay Shved Russia Igor Fayzullin
2008 Slovenia Matevz Vukotic Russia Maxim Tomilov Russia Kirill Kolchegoshev
2009 Russia Pavel Gulyaev
2010 Russia Pavel Gulyaev Russia Pavel Batushev Russia Igor Fayzullin
2011 Russia Pavel Batushev Russia Pavel Gulyaev Russia Maxim Tomilov
2012 Russia Kirill Kolchegoshev Russia Alexey Tomilov Russia Pavel Batushev
2013 Russia Egor Trapeznikov Russia Ivan Spitsyn Russia Pavel Gulyaev
2014 Russia Nikolay Kuzovlev Russia Vladimir Kartashev Russia Alexey Vagin
2015 Russia Nikolay Kuzovlev Russia Vladimir Kartashev Russia Egor Trapeznikov
2016 Russia Maxim Tomilov Russia Alexey Vagin Russia Vladimir Kartashev
2017 Russia Vladimir Kartashev Russia Radomir Proshchenko* Russia Leonid Malykh
2018 Russia Nikolay Kuzovlev Russia Ivan Spitsyn Russia Anton Nemov
2019 Russia Anton Nemov Russia Nikolay Kuzovlev Russia Vladislav Iurlov
2020 Russia Anton Nemov Russia Nikita Glazyrin Russia Nikolay Kuzovlev
2023 Iran Mohsen Beheshti Rad South Korea Myungwook Yang Iran Mohammad Reza Safdarian
2024 Mongolia Mandakhbayar Chuluunbaatar Iran Mohammad Reza Safdarian Iran Mohsen Beheshti Rad
2025 Mongolia Mandakhbayar Chuluunbaatar Iran Mohammad Reza Safdarian Mongolia Kherlen Nyamdoo

* 2017: 2. Pavel Batushev doping

Women's results

Lead

Year Winner Second Third
2000 Canada Kim Csizmazia
2001 Germany Ines Papert
2002 Russia Ksenia Sdobnikova Germany Ines Papert
2003 Germany Ines Papert Russia Ksenia Sdobnikova Germany Kirsten Buchmann
2004 no world tour
2005 no world tour
2006 Germany Ines Papert Italy Anna Torretta France Stephanie Maureau
2007 Italy Jenny Lavarda Switzerland Petra Müller France Stephanie Maureau
2008 Italy Jenny Lavarda Switzerland Petra Müller Russia Natalya Kulikova
2009 Russia Maria Tolokonina Italy Angelika Rainer France Stephanie Maureau
2010 Russia Anna Gallyamova Italy Angelika Rainer France Stephanie Maureau
2011 Russia Anna Gallyamova Czech Republic Lucie Hrozova South Korea Shin Woon Seon
2012 Italy Angelika Rainer Russia Maria Tolokonina Russia Anna Gallyamova
2013 Russia Maria Tolokonina Italy Angelika Rainer South Korea Shin Woon Seon
2014 Russia Maria Tolokonina Italy Angelika Rainer South Korea Shin Woon Seon
2015 Italy Angelika Rainer Switzerland Petra Klingler South Korea Song Han Na Rai
2016 Russia Maria Tolokonina Russia Ekaterina Vlasova South Korea Song Han Na Rai
2017 South Korea Song Han Na Rai Italy Angelika Rainer Russia Maria Tolokonina
2018 South Korea Shin Woon Seon Russia Maria Tolokonina South Korea Song Han Na Rai
2019 Russia Maria Tolokonina South Korea Shin Woon Seon Republic of Ireland Eimir McSwiggan
2020 Russia Maria Tolokonina South Korea Shin Woon Seon Switzerland Sina Goetz
2023 Switzerland Petra Klingler Switzerland Sina Goetz South Korea Shin Woon Seon
2024 South Korea Shin Woon Seon Switzerland Sina Goetz France Marion Thomas
2025 Switzerland Sina Goetz South Korea Shin Woon Seon Netherlands Marianne van der Steen

Speed

Year Winner Second Third
2006 Russia Julia Oleynikova Russia Natalya Kulikova Russia Maria Shabalina
2007 Russia Maria Shabalina Russia Maria Muravyeva Russia Maryam Filippova
2008 Russia Maria Tolokonina
2009 Russia Maria Tolokonina Russia Maryam Filippova Russia Julia Oleynikova
2010 Russia Nadezda Shubina Russia Viktoria Shabalina Russia Maryam Filippova
2011 Russia Maria Tolokonina Russia Natalya Kulikova Russia Irina Bagaeva
2012 Russia Maryam Filippova Russia Maria Krasavina Russia Maria Tolokonina
2013 Russia Julia Oleynikova Russia Maryam Filippova Russia Ekaterina Feoktistova
2014 Russia Maryam Filippova Russia Ekaterina Feoktistova Russia Natalya Kulikova
2015 Russia Ekaterina Feoktistova Russia Ekaterina Koshcheeva Russia Maria Krasavina
2016 Russia Maria Tolokonina Russia Ekaterina Koshcheeva Russia Maryam Filippova
2017 Russia Maria Tolokonina
Russia Ekaterina Koshcheeva
Russia Ekaterina Feoktistova
2018 Russia Ekaterina Koshcheeva Russia Natalya Kulikova Russia Ekaterina Feoktistova
2019 Russia Ekaterina Koshcheeva Russia Maria Tolokonina Russia Natalja Savická
2020 Russia Maria Tolokonina Russia Valerija Bogdanová Russia Alena Vlasova
2023 Switzerland Vivien Labarile Poland Olga Kosek France Marion Thomas
2024 Czech Republic Aneta Louzecka Poland Olga Kosek Liechtenstein Lorena Beck
2025 Mongolia Selenge Nyamdoo United States Catalina Shirley Czech Republic Aneta Louzecka

See also

References

  1. ^ "A Brief History". International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  2. ^ Reitemeier, Meredith (20 February 2019). "Can Anyone Beat the Russians at the Ice Climbing World Cup in Denver this Weekend?". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 10 May 2023.
  3. ^ a b Buhay, Corey (10 March 2020). "The Strange Underworld of Competition Ice Climbing". Outside. Retrieved 5 May 2023.
  4. ^ Buhay, Corey (14 March 2019). "Fish Out of Ice: A Beginner Takes on the Ice Climbing World Cup". Climbing. Retrieved 6 May 2023.
  5. ^ "UIAA Statement on Competition Ice Climbing". International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation. 30 August 2022. Retrieved 5 May 2023.