Shukri Lawrence
Shukri Lawrence | |
---|---|
Born | [1] | 29 September 1998
Years active | 2014–present |
Shukri Lawrence (born 29 September 1998), also known as Wifi Rider, is a Palestinian fashion designer, creative director, and multimedia artist based between Jerusalem and Amman. He founded the anti-luxury brand Trashy Clothing with Omar Braika[2] and Cyber Fashion Week.
Early life and education
Lawrence was born in East Jerusalem. He is a descendent of the Lorenzos who ran the Semiramis Hotel. His family's surname changed from Lorenzo to Lawrence during the British Mandate.[3] As a teenager, Lawrence would use his Armenian mother's identity to avoid confrontations with IDF soldiers.[4] [5] Lawrence studied film in Jordan. He initially considered studying in Europe, but decided he wanted to "[create] stuff for my people. I want to have more Arab artists."[6][7]
Career and artistry
Growing up, Lawrence's early interest in the world of fashion was inspired by watching fashion television in the 2000s and manifested in putting together outfits for online avatars and video games in the early 2010s.[8] He came up with the alias and username Wifirider or Wifi Rider when he created an Instagram account for digital art and editorialised photography in 2014. Lawrence's art is known for its bold use of colour and references.[6][9]
Lawrence started his career directing a music video for Austrian rapper Candy Ken.[10][9]
During his time at university, he began designing prints on shirts.[11] In art and fashion, Lawrence found himself inspired by musicians such as M.I.A, Brooke Candy, and Die Antwoord.[6][12] Lawrence implements "political satire and kitsch culture" into his work and aims to "shed light on the Palestinian cause".[13] The Arabic equivalent of kitsch is sha'bi.[14]
In 2021, Lawrence was the subject of British director Roxy Rezvany's short documentary titled Wifi Rider.[15][16]
Lawrence has contributed both writing and photography to My.Kali.[17][18]
Trashy Clothing
In response to users responding positively to t-shirt designs he shared on Instagram without initially intending to sell them,[19] Lawrence founded the anti-luxury fashion brand Trashy Clothing (also stylised tRASHY CLOTHING) in July 2017 with Omar Braika.[20] With Reem Kawasmi and Sereen Khass joining the collective, [21] they debuted their ready-to-wear collection at the 2018 Berlin Fashion Week.[22] The fashion show featured a literal wall on the side of the runway that partially blocked the view to symbolise borders and privilege.[23]
Lawrence connected with the Icelandic band Hatari, who modeled Trashy Clothing's XD collection for spring/summer 2019. XD was inspired by 2010 Internet culture, particularly the dichotomy of Lawrence's engagement with the emo and scene subcultures from a place of occupation.[24] They reunited for a collaboration titled Hatari x tRASHY, the proceeds of which went to Rainbow Street.[25] The following year, Trashy Clothing did a shoot with the feminist group Pussy Riot.[26]
In 2020, Lawrence and his label started Cyber Fashion Week, a digital fashion week combining the intersections of fashion, art, music, and performance.[27] The concept of a virtual fashion week came about after Trashy Clothing had to postpone their Fall collection show in Iceland due to the COVID-19 lockdown.[28] Cyber Fashion Week hosts 12 international designers showcasing collections on digital platforms with performances from musicians and virtual after-parties.[29]
The brand's 2021 spring/summer campaign was titled Pride for Pay and dealt with the concept of pinkwashing.[30] It depicted models being restrained and arrested, with zippers symbolising checkpoints, and also contained odes to the Arab pop icons Haifa Wehbe, Sherihan, and Maria Nalbandian.[31] Lawrence said "it’s so needed for a label to be based here and be unapologetically queer, to be a home for other queer Arabs".[5][32] This was followed by a Free Palestine t-shirt collaboration with the German brand GmbH, as well as the collection Souvenirs Of Conquest: Visit To Colonize!.[33]
In spring 2024, Trashy Clothing made its Milan Fashion Week debut with Bourgeoisie, Mufflers and Oil, which took inspiration from the cartoons of Naji Al-Ali.[34][35] Later in the year, the brand collaborated on a capsule collection with the Mexican brand Barragàn titled Arsenal of Democracy, which combines "Arab references… with Gulf-era propaganda, bloodied US iconography and pop culture allusions".[36]
Personal life
References
- ^ ""I create peaceful change"". YCreate. 17 October 2018. Retrieved 28 March 2024.
- ^ "Shukri Lawrence Fights Middle Eastern Stereotypes With Fashion". Highsnobiety. 2017-11-10. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Shukri Lawrence (3 September 2023). "My family was originally named Lorenzo before the British Mandate. Rauf Lorenzo co-managed the Semiramis Hotel, which was targeted by Zionist terrorists in 1948". Retrieved 13 March 2024 – via Instagram.
- ^ Ahram, Yasmin. "The Freedom of Movement". Riposte. Archived from the original on 18 March 2024. Retrieved 16 March 2024.
- ^ a b Barr, Anna (13 June 2022). "Pride 2022: tRASHY Clothing is Ready to Bring the Middle East to Pop Culture". Fucking Young. Retrieved 28 March 2024.
- ^ a b c Cuby, Michael (2017-07-26). "Get to Know Wifirider: The Palestinian Artist Embracing His Struggle". PAPER Magazine. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Mansri, Adlan (30 May 2018). "Shukri, le queer palestinien qui se bat contre les clichés". Konbini (in French). Retrieved 25 July 2024.
- ^ Satenstein, Liana (28 January 2022). "Shukri Lawrence Is Influencing the World With Middle Eastern Pop Culture and Politics". Vogue. Retrieved 16 March 2024.
- ^ a b "Shukri, le queer palestinien qui se bat contre les clichés". Konbini News - Société et Politique : Make News Great Again (in French). 30 May 2018. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ "Candy Ken : Sans limites et sans tabous !". APAR.TV (in French). 2016-08-29. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Ramallah, מאת Time Out (2017-10-25). "The Coolest Shirts In The World Comes From East Jerusalem". טיים אאוט (in Hebrew). Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Jreig, Cynthia (30 August 2018). "Shukri Lawrence, The Wifi Rider, in conversation with Khalid Abdel-Hadi, founder of MyKali". JDeed. Archived from the original on 6 September 2018. Retrieved 28 March 2024.
- ^ "Shukri Lawrence, Seeds Award Recipient". Prince Clays Fund. Retrieved 28 March 2024.
- ^ Hazboun, Samar (17 November 2020). "'A defiant aesthetic': The Palestinian fashion brand trashing stereotypes". 972+ Magazine. Retrieved 28 March 2024.
- ^ Nogues, Clotilde (4 August 2021). "Wifi Rider: An ode to Palestinian creativity through the lens of director Roxy Rezvany". Nowness. Retrieved 2 May 2024.
- ^ Levenson, Joey (8 September 2021). "Roxy Rezvany on her new film Wifi Rider and the art of Palestinian diaspora in Jordan". It's Nice That. Retrieved 2 May 2024.
- ^ "Shukri Lawrence". My.Kali. 12 October 2023. Retrieved 2 May 2024.
- ^ Manders, Hayden (27 March 2018). "How Jordan's Only Queer Publication Found Its Footing". Nylon. Retrieved 25 July 2024.
- ^ Ben Romdane, Sarah (2018-02-19). "tRASHY CLOTHING is the Palestinian Streetwear Brand Fighting Racism". Mille World. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Whitehouse, Matthew (2018-01-24). "this 18-year-old queer palestinian artist is fighting stereotypes with sportswear". i-D. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Kawasmi, Reem (2018-01-24). ""to deny my people is to deny peace itself, period" – reem kawasmi". i-D. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Firth, Emma (25 July 2018). "The Palestinian designer blending queer performance art and streetwear". Hunger TV. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Whitehouse, Matthew (2018-08-22). "this palestinian design collective is breaking down borders with the internet". i-D. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ "Trashy Clothing's New Collection Celebrates 2000s Emo Kids". Mille World. 2019-05-10. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Cohen, Hannah Jane (2020-01-10). "From Iceland — Taking Out The tRASH: HATARI x tRASHY Clothing Team Up". The Reykjavik Grapevine. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ "Palestinian designs gone global: Nadya Riot in tRASHY CLOTHING". JDeed. 5 May 2020. Archived from the original on 8 May 2020. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ بوعكادة, عفاف (2020-06-08). "أسبوع موضة رقمي للحفاظ على البيئة في عالم ما بعد فيروس كورونا". Vice (in Arabic). Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Satenstein, Liana (16 June 2020). "This Palestinian Label Launched the Digital World's Answer to Fashion Week". Vogue. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ "This Palestinian Designer is Hosting a Virtual Fashion Week". Mille World. 2020-05-22. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Filippello, Roberto. "Queer Fashion Against Pinkwashing". Fashion Studies Journal. Retrieved 28 March 2024.
- ^ Satenstein, Liana (24 June 2021). "This Label's New Collection Is Inspired by Its Designers' Experience as Queer Palestinians". Vogue. Retrieved 28 March 2024.
- ^ Al Saadi, Leen (22 March 2023). "Podcast: Shukri Lawrence explains how Trashy Clothing is deconstructing norms, one kitschy garment at a time". Grazia Middle East. Retrieved 28 March 2024.
- ^ Maisey, Sarah (15 August 2021). "Trashy Clothing teams up with GmbH to create 'Free Palestine' tops". The National. Retrieved 8 December 2022.
- ^ Raik, Laila (10 February 2024). "Palestinian Brand Trashy Clothing To Make Its Milan Fashion Week Debut". SceneStyled. Retrieved 8 December 2024.
- ^ Hariss, Yassine (1 February 2024). "Trashy Clothing Explore Imperialism and Corruption For SS24". Mille. Retrieved 8 December 2024.
- ^ Hoste, Elliot (8 November 2024). "Trashy Clothing's Barragán collab sends up America's twisted empire". Dazed. Retrieved 8 December 2024.
- ^ Tirado, Fran (10 January 2018). "The Most Exciting Queers to Follow on Instagram in 2018". them. Retrieved 2020-06-19.
- ^ Monique (4 December 2017). "Meet Shukri Lawrence, queer Palestinian clothing designer who's challenging Middle Eastern stereotypes". Just Add Color. Retrieved 28 March 2024.