No One Mourns the Wicked (climb)
| No One Mourns the Wicked | |
|---|---|
  | |
| Location | South Platte, Colorado, United States |
| Coordinates | 39°06′41″N 105°13′31″W / 39.11139°N 105.22535°W |
| Climbing area | Thunder Ridge |
| Route type | Bouldering |
| Rating | 9A (V17) |
| First ascent | Nathaniel Coleman, 3 December 2024 |
No One Mourns the Wicked is a grade 9A (V17) bouldering problem at Thunder Ridge in the South Platte region of Colorado. It was first climbed by American climber Nathaniel Coleman on 3 December 2024.[1][2] The problem was repeated by Hamish McArthur on 4 May 2025 in a single session, marking the first time a 9A boulder had been completed in one day.[3][4] It is the third confirmed 9A boulder in the United States, following Return of the Sleepwalker (2021) and Megatron (2022).
Description
The climb is a sit-start extension to the existing Defying Gravity 8C (V15) boulder, which was first climbed by Daniel Woods in 2013.[1][5] The full problem consists of 21 hand moves: a nine-move low start section graded approximately 8B (V13), followed by the 12-move Defying Gravity sequence.[1][2] The climb is located on a steep face at Thunder Ridge, with low-friction rails and crimps, and involves multiple hard dynos. The crux is the starting move of Defying Gravity, which Gripped magazine called "one of the single hardest starting moves of any problem anywhere", performed after nine moves of difficult climbing.[1]
The problem's name, like Defying Gravity, comes from a song in the Broadway musical Wicked.[1]
History
The low start of Defying Gravity was a longstanding project within the American bouldering community, and part of Daniel Woods' original vision when he set the route.[1][2] Coleman began working on the problem after completing the fourth ascent of Defying Gravity on 18 November 2023, following eight sessions. He then spent 14 additional sessions on No One Mourns the Wicked, completing it on 3 December 2024.[1] The ascent was documented by filmmaker Ben Neilson for Mellow Climbing, with the film released on 1 January 2025.[2]
On 4 May 2025, Hamish McArthur made the first repeat of the problem, completing it in a single session. McArthur arrived at the boulder at 12:00 PM, sent Defying Gravity by 1:30 PM, and completed the full problem at 2:47 PM.[6] This marked the first time a 9A boulder had been completed in a single day.[7] McArthur had previously climbed Megatron one month earlier, giving him experience at the grade to confirm Coleman's proposed rating.[3][4] When asked about the crux in an interview, McArthur stated "I don’t think a move has ever been better suited to me".[7]
Ascents
No One Mourns the Wicked has been ascended by:
- 1st. Nathaniel Coleman on 3 December 2024[1]
- 2nd. Hamish McArthur on 4 May 2025[3]
See also
- Return of the Sleepwalker - first 9A boulder in the US, by Daniel Woods
- Megatron - second 9A boulder in the US, by Shawn Raboutou
References
- ^ a b c d e f g h Pardy, Aaron (4 December 2024). "Nathaniel Coleman on Establishing the USA's Newest V17". Gripped. Retrieved 17 August 2025.
- ^ a b c d "Coleman makes first ascent of No One Mourns the Wicked (V17/Font 9A)". Climber Magazine. December 2024. Retrieved 17 August 2025.
- ^ a b c "Hamish McArthur repeats 'No one Mourns The Wicked' (9A) in single session". Planet Mountain. 6 May 2025. Retrieved 17 August 2025.
- ^ a b White, Xa (May 2025). "Hamish McArthur climbs second 9A in the space of two weeks". UK Climbing. Retrieved 17 August 2025.
- ^ "Defying Gravity: Woods Establishes V15 in Colorado". Climbing. Outside Inc. Retrieved 17 August 2025.
- ^ "Hamish McArthur Climbs No One Mourns The Wicked V17". Gripped. 5 May 2025. Retrieved 17 August 2025.
- ^ a b Walsh, Anthony (6 May 2025). "Hamish McArthur Sends Colorado V17 in a Single 3-Hour Session". Climbing. Outside Inc. Archived from the original on 18 August 2025. Retrieved 18 August 2025.