Marios (cafe)

Marios Cafe is an Australian café located at 303 Brunswick Street in the inner-city Melbourne suburb of Fitzroy.^[1] The cafe was established on 28 April, 1986 by business partners Mario Maccarone and Mario De Pasquale.^[2][3]

The founders, both Italian-Australian waiters with backgrounds in Melbourne’s fine dining sector, met while working at Tsindos Bistrot and later spent time at Mietta’s Restaurant. Rather than replicating the formality of those venues, they sought to create an inclusive, everyday dining experience in what was then a run-down, bohemian area of Fitzroy. At the time of opening, Fitzroy had only a small number of cafés, most of which served little more than coffee or simple toasties. Drawing inspiration from Italian institutions such as Pellegrini’s and Tiamo, the founders combined fine dining elements, such as white tablecloths and uniformed waitstaff, with a casual and affordable format. The aim was to provide quality Italian food and coffee at prices accessible to local residents.^[4] This emphasis on unpretentious quality and inclusivity became central to the establishment’s identity from the outset.^[3]

Mario’s soon became known for its welcoming atmosphere. In the 1980s, Melbourne’s hospitality venues were largely divided between pubs, which were often male-dominated, and formal restaurants. Mario’s provided a middle ground in which a broader clientele, including women dining alone, felt comfortable. The café attracted a diverse mix of patrons, ranging from students to artists, musicians, writers and activists. Its reputation for inclusivity was reinforced by an explicit openness to minority groups, which contributed to its role as a social hub in Fitzroy’s cultural life.^[5]

The physical character of Mario’s Cafe has changed little since its opening. It occupies a Victorian-era shopfront on Brunswick Street, with an interior that has remained deliberately consistent. Jazz music, starched white tablecloths and black-vested waiters have remained defining features since 1986. The décor is further distinguished by rotating art exhibitions, shelves lined with coffee jars and wine bottles, and the red Mario’s signage at the entrance.

Although Fitzroy underwent gentrification during the 1990s and 2000s, changes at Mario’s have been incremental. The menu continues to feature longstanding Italian staples such as lasagne, spaghetti bolognese, carbonara, pesto and puttanesca, with seasonal specials introduced periodically. Staff retention has been notable, with some employees remaining for decades. This continuity in décor, menu and personnel has contributed to the café’s status as a local institution.

The egalitarian ethos of the establishment has also endured. Reservations are not taken, and no preferential treatment is given to high-profile individuals. A widely reported example occurred in the 1990s when American comedian Jerry Seinfeld attempted unsuccessfully to secure a table booking, later expressing his frustration publicly. It was reported at the time that Mr Seinfeld quipped that Melbourne was “...the anus of the world.” ^[2][6]

Since 1988, Mario’s Cafe has hosted rotating exhibitions of works by local artists.^[7] These exhibitions change every few weeks, with all sale proceeds directed to the artists themselves. The initiative has provided emerging artists with exposure and has effectively positioned the café as both a dining venue and an accessible exhibition space. Over the years, notable figures such as Barry Humphries and Kylie Minogue have been observed among its patrons.

Mario’s has featured in numerous personal and community milestones. In 2016, the café marked its 30th anniversary with a celebration in which menu prices were rolled back to 1986 levels, attracting long queues along Brunswick Street for $1 coffees and $4.50 lasagne.^[2] The café has also had broader influence on Victoria’s hospitality sector, including contributing to reforms of liquor licensing in the late 1980s that expanded the ability of small eateries to serve alcohol.^[5]